top of page
Search

Jourama Falls to Cooktown adventures

  • Kelsey Lawler
  • May 27, 2018
  • 8 min read

North of Townsville to Cooktown was an amazing leg of the trip , We took a total of twelve days once returning from Magnetic Island to get to Cooktown. We didn't have a timeline so it was good to take time to explore everything the Tropics in North Queensland had to offer.

We began at Jourama Falls in the Paluma National Park approx 90 minutes north of Townsville after already investigating Big Crystal Creek just south but was a bit overcrowded and headed to there. We thought we had hit the jackpot as we arrived late afternoon to an empty camping grounds so green and surrounded by big beautiful trees , We then began to set up and within minutes we were covered head to toe in mozzies. They nearly picked us up and carried us away being lucky that myself and Lyam both don't come up in bites they normally do not phase us but this was something else they still bit even after we put on long sleeved shirts and pants. We tried hard to laugh at the situation and how we had put two and two together why we were the only ones at this campground , If you kept moving holding a mozzie stick in your hand almost a dance for the mozzies to stop helped. Lets just say we were in bed extra early this night!

We awoke early to do the walk up to the falls and to our delight the mozzies backed off it was a stunning hour return walk with little bridges taking you across creeks with crystal clear water up to the falls lookout. On the way back down we stopped at the swimming hole among these big beautiful boulders for a morning wake up as the water was ice cold but felt great we had the whole place to ourselves and we returned to the car re energized and ready to treat ourselves with some store bought coffee when we got to Ingham approx half hour north.

(Jourama Falls)

( Jourama Falls)

(Boulder pool below the falls @ Jourama)

Ingham we didn't mind an old country town but quite large of Italian heritage we grabbed our coffee ready to head off to check out Herbert River gorge spring in our step and all until we got back to the car and Lyam went to grab for his keys in his pocket then within seconds pointed to the keys sitting in the ignition locked up in the car. We checked all windows hoping one wasn't shut properly to no avail and the next four hour mission to get inside Nelly begun. approx 4 runs to mitre 10 down the road packing tape with Araldite to pop the button lock on the back door to borrowing power tools and many spectators coming and going eventually the quarter panel window was smashed which in theory could have been done in the first five minutes. So a bit delayed we headed off to Herbert River gorge which was found to be not as accessible as we thought which is normally done via helicopter!. We had a fish at the only bit driveable to access with Lyam catching a few sootys we headed to find somewhere to stay finding Ashton Hotel a cute pub surrounded by sugar cane farms offering camping and hot showers.

(Lyam with a little Sooty @ Herbert River)

(Herbert River)

We then headed off in the morning for Wallaman Falls the highest, permanent, single drop waterfall in Australia. A very winding and ascending drive but worth every bit to see it , We were amazed and stood there in awe as the fog began to part and rushing gully below became more and more visible.

( Wallaman Falls)

Then headed for Lucinda where we planned to stay and get some fishing in. We arrived after already checking out the two beaches before forrest and taylors and were a bit underwhelmed after researching and what we had heard not quite living up with the caravan park in an undesirable location no public boat ramps or access saw us head back to Taylors Beach with a boat ramp within walking distance of the park and set up for two days. We fished first thing in the morning we fished last light of the day for two days straight up and down the river off the bank and got an undersized estuary cod ( thrown back ) and 1 crab! so we were up and adam the next morning to check out Murray Falls and Cardwell.

Murray falls was amazing i layed on a boulder above a swimming hole reading while I amusingly watched Lyam scramble through the foilage on the banks trying to be stealth for the Jungle perch he was targeting and spent a few hours there before returning to Bilyana rest area for a quick free camp overnighter with toilets just off the highway backing onto a country train line.

Headed for Tully gorge next morning passing through Cardwell a beautiful spot with a beautiful blue spring pool the colour from the calcium in the rocks is amazing.

( Blue spa pool @ Cardwell)

(Murray Falls)

We loved Tully and everything about it we arrived after already driving through Hull Head and Tully Heads Lyam was set on buying some land and setting up home. We got out of the car to have a walk around with some big awesome historical buildings surrounded by big mountains covered in big green foilage. We then headed for the gorge approx 40 min from town to try our hands on some Jungle Perch to find out the world white water rafting championships were on. We ended up watching a couple of the events which was good fun but then realised with the championships running the water they release from the dam to make the rapids run would be going all day instead of only two hours meaning for some difficult fishing with fast running water. We drove south of the campground to the river crossing to try our luck walking the banks , I got approx 50m in when I nearly stood on a huge and I mean huge cane toad easily the size of my head it was black and it was staring at me and I could not bring myself to walk past it so a quick I'm out shout out to Lyam I returned to the car and read while he caught a few good sootys.

We camped at the national park campground with a cold shower and toilets in a beautiful setting where we awoke to the sound of the rushing rapids and headed off to check out Mission beach area. not too far north approx half hour we arrived early to check out the four beaches that make up Mission Beach being South Mission, Wongaling ,Mission and Bingal Bay. We drove from south to north with Bingal Bay right at the end being our pick. The council run caravan park was literally on the beach with palm trees lining the sand and the rainforest meeting the water it was an oasis as we sat in our camp chairs watching the waves and sun set with a few cold ones because hey it was Saturday!

(Drive in to Bingal Bay)

(Camp site @ Bingal Bay)

(Bingal Bay Beach)

(Old Mate in the tree looking over the beach)

(One of Lyam's sootys from Tully)

(Tully Gorge right next to where we camped)

( Hull Head )

We left Bingal heading for Babinda passing through Innisfail another pretty old country town with historic buildings and a stunning river that looked different to the other rivers in the tropics it almost looked like a NSW river the colours and landscape just gave it that feel, The croc sign however quickly got rid of that thought. We arrived at Babinda approx 70km south of Cairns and what a spot a tiny town next to railway tracks surrounded by rolling hills and sugar cane with a massive spread out free camp reserve nestled next to Babinda creek which we stayed at for two nights with showers and toilets. We had done some research and there was a kayak tour down the creek which we booked for the following day for great value and headed down to Babinda Boulders a waterhole with these big boulders rushing through water between them based on a dreamtime story it comes with its superstitions with over 16 deaths since the 60's due to the sucking power of the water under the boulders and is fenced off but a smaller still waterhole on the otherside is open for swimming with crystal clear water and beautiful green tinged rocks underneath.

Next morning we headed off for the kayaking we were lucky enough to have the whole place to ourselves and the only ones to book a kayak for the day. We launched from the owners property a gem within itself and gave his number to call him when we reached the end of the creek which took approx 4 hours and he came and picked us up. It was the most incredible water I have ever seen we took our rods and could literally see every fish before we cast. Lyam was chuffed catching his first ever Jungle perch and then another two right after as we slowly paddled down the stream taking in the breathtaking scenery.

( Josephine Falls near Babinda)

(Kayaking down Babinda Creek )

(Lyams First Jungle Perch a very exciting moment)

(Babinda Boulders)

( The Devils Hole @ Boulders)

We hit Cairns the following day getting two tyres replaced that were close to needing it to ensure we didn't have any issues up the Cape and walked around town having a sticky beak while we waited. I wasn't totally wrapped in Cairns it is a city so it makes sense but being to all these secluded beautiful spots it was almost overwhelming with traffic lights and cars everywhere hustling and bustling around. We picked up the car and did a very big shop to ensure we were covered mainly for dry food for the cape as there was no Woolworths at Cooktown where we were staying for nearly a week and a Dan Murphy stop was also needed.

The afternoon became overcast and we headed up to Kuranda to check out Barron Falls which was pretty but had nothing on the ones we had seen earlier in the week and headed back down to Palm cove. It was blowing a gale and overcast which was a little disappointing as I had this vision in my head of Catrina Rowntree on Getaway walking down the pictersque beach from when I was a kid and it was not to be , to make it better we paid $41 for an unpowered site for one night which was another kick to the face after the amount we had spent that day on tyres , groceries ,fishing gear and alcohol. We headed off early the next day head to Cape tribulation and crossed the Daintree river via the ferry which was bucket list ticker even thpugh it was raining as Lyam said it was pretty cool to go through the rainforest in the rain as we headed up to Cape Tribulation the scenery was amazing arriving at cape trib camp ground the rain then decided to set in and it did even more so as the day went on. Lyam was keen for a fish so off he went in pouring rain while I sat under cover to begin my last blog post and ended up chatting to a couple of ladies campervanning from vic. Lyam returned wet but had seen his first Croc I was spewing as I still haven't seen one in the flesh and were starting to think they were the unicorns of the north and settled down for an early night as the rain continued on raining.

( Creek on the way to Cape Tribulation in the Daintree )

( Driving through the Daintree just off the ferry)

( On the Daintree Ferry over Daintree River )

( Daintree River )

( Barron Falls @ Kuranda )

We headed off for the Bloomfield track in the morning to begin Cooktown stay before the Cape , Keep tuned for Bloomfield Track to the Tip of oz instalment next week!

 
 
 

Comments


bottom of page